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    MandB's african adventure25Thu, 23 Aug 2007
    Hello everyone, we are back in blighty and this is our final blog entry! 

    After Sue and Dave left we headed to Luderitz, on the coast in Namibia. Really spectacular coastline and diamond country, so went sparkly hunting�image751.jpgimage749.jpgimage706.jpgimage748.jpg

    We had our first wedding anniversary at a seafood restaurant called Ritzys (to those Swansea-ites � how appropriate is that??).  Instead of bubbly we celebrated with a luminous green bottle of lemon twist� probably the cheapest anniversary meal in history (16 quid!)�image750.jpgimage752.jpg

    Visited the eerie ghost town of Kolmanskop, which was once a wealthy Victorian diamond mining town.  Now a big sandpit (check out Matt swimming in the old swimming pool)�image753.jpgimage700.jpgimage701.jpg

    Next stop was a gorgeous spot on the Orange River� Unfortunately we hit rain (first in 3 months) so spent most of our time huddled up in our �lapa� (outdoor kitchen).  Despite the rain we managed to squeeze in a lovely walk along the river. Very amazed by all the different types of rocks!...image702.jpgimage703.jpgimage705.jpgimage704.jpg

    We crossed the border into South Africa and headed to Port Nolloth, a very sleepy little fishing town on the coast.  Spent our time exploring the coast line, fishing, collecting mussels and keeping warm and dry in our seaside bungalow�image707.jpgimage708.jpgimage709.jpg

    We stayed in a wendy house in Springbok for a couple of days, and went in search of the famous Namaqualand wild spring flowers� and we found them in the Namaqua National Park � breathtaking�image710.jpgimage711.jpgimage712.jpgimage713.jpgimage714.jpgimage715.jpg

    We camped at the bottom of a stunning mountain waterfall near Vanrynsdorp and nearly turned to ice cubes in the freezing cold water, very invigorating�image716.jpgimage717.jpgimage718.jpg

    Feeling duly refreshed we drove onto the Cederberg Mountains.  The rivers were all in flood, it was orange season and thermal pyjamas were totally essential� image719.jpgimage720.jpgimage727.jpg

    Spent a day hiking up to the Maltese Cross � incredible views and snow!...image721.jpgimage722.jpgimage723.jpgimage724.jpgimage725.jpgimage726.jpg

    Next stop was Paternoster, a gorgeous fishing village. Unfortunately it rained the whole time so we only got one piccie...image728.jpg

    Last camping spot of the trip was in Saldhana Bay.  We loved the West Coast National Park � very unique with herds of game surrounded by loads of beautiful wild flowers�image733.jpgimage732.jpgimage731.jpgimage730.jpgimage729.jpg

    Matt was thrown into a fit of depression by this sign (Kaapstad is Cape Town)�image734.jpg

    His depression deepened after saying goodbye to our beloved Beast�image735.jpg

    And could only be cured by a week partying with the wonderful Georgie Davis and her student buddies in Cape Town!...image736.jpgimage737.jpgimage738.jpgimage739.jpgimage740.jpgimage741.jpgimage742.jpgimage743.jpg

    Boo hoo � very sad to end one of the most amazing experiences of our lives� (so far!) image744.jpgimage745.jpg

    Hoorah � hello family! image746.jpgimage747.jpg

    So there it is, M&B�s African Adventure.  Thank you all for reading, commenting, emailing, visiting, putting us up, generously giving and generally being a great support team, we couldn�t have done it without ya!Loads of love us xxxx

    Thursday August 23 2007MandB's african adventureThu, 23 Aug 2007 Fri, 20 Jul 2007
    Hello everyone, we've had a wonderful month with Sue and Little Dave in Namibia - here's the story...

    Sue and Dave flew to Windhoek, and we spent a day wandering round the historic city...image549.jpgimage550.jpgimage551.jpg

    It wasn't long before we awoke the beast and set off north on our road trip...image552.jpg

    First stop was Waterberg Plateau Park, walked to the top of the plateau for a great sunset, and walked back down for several sundowners in the great colonial bar.  Sue and Dave had their first camp fire meal, even though the chef was slightly sloshed...image553.jpgimage554.jpgimage555.jpgimage556.jpgimage557.jpg

    We headed to Etosha National Park for a few days, saw loads of animals and had great fun bundu bashing...image566.jpgimage558.jpgimage559.jpgimage560.jpgimage561.jpgimage562.jpgimage563.jpgimage564.jpgimage565.jpgimage567.jpgimage571.jpgimage572.jpgimage568.jpgimage570.jpgimage569.jpg

    Travelled further north into the bush with a stopover at Nakambale 'tented camp' run by the local community...image573.jpgimage574.jpg

    Reached the Angola Border and found gorgeous spot on Kunene River for a few days camping, fishing, walking, and a fabulous sundowner river trip...image585.jpgimage575.jpgimage576.jpgimage588.jpgimage577.jpgimage578.jpgimage579.jpgimage580.jpgimage581.jpgimage582.jpgimage586.jpg

    Check out this record breaker...image587.jpg

    The girls enjoyed scintilating after dinner conversation...image583.jpgimage584.jpg

    Finally reached our destination, Epupa Falls, a breathtaking and untouched place.  We arrived for full moon, so after a dip in the pools, we found a fab spot for a long sundowner and moonupper session...image589.jpgimage687.jpgimage690.jpgimage691.jpgimage692.jpg

    On the way South again and we stopped over at Ongongo Bush Camp, where we had a dip in the natural spring before bed.  The next morning we were bombarded by a crazy dust storm as we packed up... urgimage693.jpg

    After 12 days of camping (and everything full of dust) we were all looking for some luxury, so stopped for a couple of nights at The White Lady in Uis, where we watched the sun rise over Brandberg Mountain...image670.jpgimage671.jpgimage672.jpg

    Feeling refreshed we headed towards the incredible Skeleton Coast, had a great day exploring the beach and seeing the masses of seals and jackals at Cape Cross colony (it honked!).  We stopped at Henties Bay for the best seafood meal of the trip...image600.jpgimage601.jpgimage602.jpgimage603.jpgimage604.jpgimage599.jpgimage683.jpg

    We stayed in Swakopmund for a few days, in a cute pink bungalow, and explored the great town and ate alot of fresh fish...image606.jpgimage605.jpgimage607.jpgimage608.jpgimage609.jpg

    Matt and Dave spent one day deep sea fishing, on a boat called Casanova.  They caught loads and brought home Cob and Blacktail, for a great bbq.  Meanwhile Sue and Bonnie shopped and visited the Crystal Gallery... perfect day for everyone!image610.jpgimage614.jpgimage611.jpgimage612.jpgimage613.jpgimage615.jpg

    The next day we all had a real treat, a sunrise hot air balloon ride.  It was a fab wedding pressie from Andy, Mich and boys. Thank you so much guys, it was stunning and finished off perfectly with a champers brekky...image616.jpgimage617.jpgimage618.jpgimage619.jpgimage620.jpgimage621.jpgimage622.jpgimage623.jpgimage624.jpgimage625.jpgimage626.jpg

    The dunes just outside Swakopmund were a perfect sundown spot (poor Sue was slaving away at the laundrette!)...image627.jpgimage629.jpgimage628.jpgimage630.jpg

    Last night in Swakopmund we had a great meal at The Tug, overlooking the ocean...image631.jpgimage632.jpg

    We had an eventful trip to Sesriem, amazing passes, world famous apple pie and a puncture...image633.jpgimage634.jpgimage635.jpg

    We had to stay in the Sesriem overflow campsite (aka dustbowl), but we escaped to the nearby posh lodge for a great dinner.  It was all worth it for the fantastic sunrise and morning wandering in the dunes.image636.jpgimage637.jpgimage638.jpgimage639.jpgimage676.jpgimage677.jpgimage678.jpg

    We had an unplanned stopover at Hardap Dam on our way South, and finished off the rest of the sea fish in a great curry.  It was such a great place we decided to spend more time there on our way back up...image685.jpg

    Stopped over at a crazy animal orphanage.. cheetahs, meercats, eland, warthog and a three legged pug all wandering around the camp.  We saw an amazing sunset at Quivertree Forest and clambered around the Giants' Playground...image680.jpgimage647.jpgimage645.jpgimage646.jpgimage648.jpgimage649.jpg

    Eventually we arrived at our most southerly destination; Fish River Canyon.  We stayed at Ai Ais, bathed in the Hot Springs, saw spectacular views of the Canyon and had a great afternoon at Canon Lodge where we bought loads of cheese, kudu and lamb...image651.jpgimage652.jpgimage650.jpgimage653.jpgimage654.jpgimage655.jpgimage656.jpg

    Arrived back at Hardap Dam where we booked into a luxury bungalow for three nights of relaxation and good food (spot the kudu fillet). It's a really peaceful place with lots of birds and wildlife, and although the fellas could see loads of fish, they didn't catch one!...image657.jpgimage658.jpgimage659.jpgimage660.jpg

    The trip ended back in Windhoek, and we celebrated both our wedding anniversaries with a lovely meal out and loads of champers...image662.jpgimage663.jpgimage664.jpgimage668.jpg

    Matt didn't want his folks to leave so kidnapped Little Dave...image666.jpg

    More food (!) for our farewell lunch, before we dropped off Sue and Dave at the airport.  We were both very sad to see them go, the last month has been just brilliant...image665.jpgimage667.jpg

    Only a month left now til we are back in rainy ole blighty, can't say we are completely looking forward to it, looking forward to seeing you lot tho!Lots of love us xxxxx

    Friday July 20 2007MandB's african adventureFri, 20 Jul 2007 Tue, 19 Jun 2007
    Hello all, it's been three weeks since our last post, and we've been pootling around Botswana (mostly in 4x4 through deep sand!).  We started in Kasane where there were some very friendly birds in the campsite (they liked our muesli)...

    image510.jpgWe had a great wedding pressie from Carol - a sunset river safari on the Chobe River - saw loads of animals coming down to the water to drink and cross (millions of elephants) and the most beautiful sunset.  Thank you very much Carol - it was great!...

    image511.jpgimage512.jpgimage513.jpgimage515.jpgimage514.jpgNext morning we began our journey through Chobe National Park.  We spent two nights at Savuti Camp, smack bang in the middle, a hard 8 hour drive through sand for Mr Staggy.  Knackered when we arrived and needed to see something spectacular there to make it worth the trip... which we did... (Chobe is known for it's abundance of elephants, and Savuti is renowned to have the only pride of lions that eat them).  We had a great time, made great friends (Toby, Alex and Olly) and defended our tents against an intruder...

    image520.jpgimage517.jpgimage518.jpgimage519.jpgimage521.jpgimage516.jpgNext stop was Mankwe Bush Camp, where we treated ourselves to a meal out... in the open air restaurant - it was freezing - but at least the trifle kept cold!...

    image522.jpgimage523.jpgWe had a few days in Maun to stock up (nothing exciting to photograph), before heading north to Shakawe Fishing Lodge in the Okavango Delta (guess why we chose that place?).  First night we met Elena and Matt who run the campsite, after a few beers and a few more we headed out on Matt's boat for a full moon croc hunt - check out the size of the brute we caught... (promise he wasn't hurt and was returned safely to his mum)... 

    image524.jpgimage525.jpgimage526.jpgMatt caught his first Tigerfish - what a whopper!  It's the angle that makes it look small...

    image527.jpgWent out fishing on Okavango River a few times with Matt during our stay.  Staggy had great fun and landed 11 Bream...

    image528.jpgimage529.jpgimage531.jpgimage530.jpgWe set off next across the Makhadikhadi Pans - massive salt pans in the Kalahari where there used to be a huge lake.  Crazy landscape, random sprouts of grass, floating ostriches and masses of nothing...

    image543.jpgimage533.jpgimage535.jpgimage536.jpgWe spent a night at Kubu Island, a rock outcrop in the middle of the Pans, with loads of baobabs and history.  It was a really beautiful, peaceful, isolated place, a fave spot of the trip...

    image541.jpgimage542.jpgFrom one extreme to the next, Leroo La Tau Camp is on the edge of Makhadikhadi Pans National Park, and is infested with elephants, zebra and wildebeast - very noisy!  We didn't get much sleep while the elephant was shaking nearby trees. Matt had a go at repairing the damage...

    image534.jpgimage538.jpgimage539.jpgimage537.jpgAnother great wedding pressie in Botswana from the lovely Chloella.  We stayed at Dqae Qare game farm in the Kalahari - owned and run by San bushmen.  We went on a great foraging bushwalk with Dina, her husband and her sister, and struck gold with a set of massive tubers...they were pretty delicious...if you're really hungry... Thanks so much Chloe, your gift has given us the skills to survive in the Kalahari (at least for an afternoon)...

    image540.jpgimage545.jpgimage546.jpgimage547.jpgimage548.jpgimage544.jpgNow in Windhoek, Namibia (an awesome city) waiting for Little Dave and Super Sue (Matt's folks) to arrive on Thursday morning.  Then we head off for a month around Namibia, we're very excited!

    Love from us honeymoonersimage532.jpg

    Tuesday June 19 2007MandB's african adventureTue, 19 Jun 2007 Thu, 24 May 2007
    Hello all, we've just had a fab 2 weeks in Zambia - here are some of our piccies...

    We started with 3 days at South Luangua National Park (wedding present from the Trenberth Clan - thanks so much guys).  The campsite was amazing - tent in the trees (to keep us safe from the animals) hippos and crocs in the river, elephants and hyenas strolling through ... lush.image449.jpg

    Matt decided that his head was looking unnaturally big for his body, so removed his David Bellamy beard...stage two (handlebar moustache and lamb chop sideys) freaked Bonnie out too much so had to go...image477.jpgimage450.jpgimage451.jpg

    Had the most amazing freebie - Matt made friends with a fellow Kenyan; Glenton Coombes who just happened to be flying his chopper around the park for a few days... guess what we did the next afternoon... 3 hours over the park, to northern plateau and back while the sun set... amazing... (see if you can spot the elephants crossing the river)...image452.jpgimage453.jpgimage454.jpgimage455.jpgimage457.jpgimage456.jpg

    Next morning we were up early and in the park for sunrise, saw lots and lots - elephants, puku, crocs, hippo, giraffe, impala, and many more. Also had a few hairy 4x4 moments...image458.jpgimage459.jpgimage460.jpgimage461.jpgimage462.jpgimage463.jpgimage464.jpgimage478.jpg

    That evening we did a fab night drive (first time), it was great fun not driving ourselves and we saw lots of stuff - lions, hyenas, gennet cats, mongoose...image465.jpgimage466.jpgimage467.jpgimage468.jpgimage469.jpg

    ...and very excitingly, a leopard... (yes it IS a leopard).  We have a great night vision video of it for anyone who wants to dispute our poor photographic evidence...image509.jpg

    Matt even squeezed in a spot of fishing before we left - perfect three days, thank you so much to the lovely Trenberths for the wedding pressie...image470.jpgimage471.jpg

    Headed off towards Lusaka, with a stop off at Luangua Bridge... where Matt found a puff adder that was hanging out by our tent... it didn't last long when the guard found out...image472.jpg

    No photos of Lusaka cos we were busy eating out, going to cinema and shopping... ahh civilisation...Next stop was Siavonga on shores of Lake Kariba for a couple of days - lovely beach, nice for chilling out.  Visited Kariba Dam while we were there, bloomin huge wall... pretty spectacular... for a wall...

    image473.jpgimage474.jpgimage475.jpgimage476.jpgimage479.jpgDrove to Livingstone where we had another great wedding pressie; White Water Rafting on the Zambezi thanks to Sam and Stuart.  Amazing, crazy, very fun day, Bonnie fell in and we both got very wet.

    Us all geared up and clambering into the gorge...image484.jpgimage480.jpg

    One of the first rapids...image496.jpgimage497.jpgimage498.jpgimage499.jpgimage500.jpgimage501.jpg

    Some more great shots...image502.jpgimage481.jpgimage495.jpgimage503.jpg

    Another rapid sequence...image504.jpgimage505.jpgimage506.jpgimage507.jpgimage508.jpg

    Matt finished off the day by having a go on the rescue kayaks... had to be saved while trying a roll... he eventually got the hang of it...  Massive, huge thank you to Sam and Stuart for a really great day, we loved it!image482.jpgimage483.jpg

    After a day of recovery, we headed to Vic Falls... totally stunning... and wet as you can see...image485.jpgimage486.jpgimage487.jpgimage488.jpgimage489.jpgimage490.jpgimage491.jpg

    After a quick change in the car park we spruced up and waltzed into The Royal Livingstone for a super posh lunch on the banks of the Zambezi... a real splash out, lush...image492.jpgimage493.jpgimage494.jpg

    Only two weeks in Zambia, but really fab.  Off to Botswana this afternoon, will have new number there - we'll let you know it asap.Lots of love and big thanks us xxx

    Thursday May 24 2007MandB's african adventureThu, 24 May 2007 Wed, 09 May 2007
    Yes, hello, we are still alive and the beast is still roaring...

    image445.jpgAfter our last update we received an unexpected call from two Kenyan baboons (Sam and Guy) and a Scottish giant (Callum) and drove back up to Cape Maclear to hang out with them (check out Matt's 'fro)...

    image401.jpgimage402.jpgimage407.jpgHad a couple of days of kayaking and snorkelling in the lake - lots of fun...

    image403.jpgimage404.jpgimage405.jpgimage406.jpgMatt and Sam had a day's fishing from kayaks and as you can see caught some real monsters...

    image408.jpgimage409.jpgAfter a few days at Cape Maclear, we headed up the lake shore, stopping at Nkhotakhota pottery for a yummy lunch (in our new team hats)...

    image410.jpgimage446.jpgimage411.jpgSet up camp at Makuzi Beach (check out Sam's hi tech tent).  Lovely day swimming and posh meal in the evening, as a farewell to the boys...

    image412.jpgimage413.jpgimage447.jpgAfter boys left, we decided to make our way to Mt Mulanji (in South) for Bonnie's b'day.  First stop was the Viphya Forest; Luwawa Forest Lodge, where we walked, fished and had lovely sundowners on the dam...

    image415.jpgimage418.jpgimage417.jpgTragically... their dog took a dislike to our tent and woke us at 6am by ripping through the fly sheet... gutted... as you can see, local tailor came to the rescue (sort of)...

    image414.jpgimage416.jpgimage419.jpgNext stop was Liwonde National Park, kind of disappointing on the animal front, but lovely sundowner spot overlooking the river Shire, (can anyone identify this bird for us - it was HUGE)...

    image422.jpgimage425.jpgimage420.jpgimage421.jpgStopped overnight on Zomba Plateau, at a Trout Farm with cute little forest huts... roaring fires all night...

    image423.jpgimage424.jpgOn 1st May we did the final leg on a brand new highway that has been dedicated to an iconic African leader who has been a beacon of light for Africa's development and democracy...

    image426.jpgArrived at Mt Mulanji (highest mountain in central Africa), just in time for Matt to get some fishing in (and get line stuck)... 

    image427.jpgimage428.jpgimage429.jpgEarly on 2nd May Bonnie was ready with her war paint to face the mountain...

    image438.jpgIt was a stunning hike, with breathtaking views... but bloomin hard work.  Took 6 and a half steep rocky hours to get up to the CCAP hut (built out of cedar in 1899 so currently on it's last legs).  Bonnie got an early bday pressie to keep her head warm on the mountain and we spent the evening toasty by the fire, and looking forward to seeing a spectacular sunrise on Bonnie's bday...

    image430.jpgimage431.jpgimage432.jpgimage433.jpgimage434.jpgimage435.jpgimage436.jpgimage437.jpgimage439.jpghmmm, if the sun rose, we didn't see it.  Woke to heavy mist, which cleared as we walked down the mountain.  Hot by the time we reached the bottom, so jumped straight in the river to cool off... 

    image440.jpgimage441.jpgimage442.jpgThat afternoon, Bonnie got more pressies and in the evening we had the most amazing Stagg Chicken Curry (Yes, Matt managed to get hold of a chicken on the mountain), followed by birthday cake and posh chocs... yum...

    image443.jpgimage444.jpgWow, mammoth update!  We have been in Lilongwe for a little while now, Matt's infection returned and he has had a few days of R and R to recover.  Tomorrow we'll head over the border into Zambia, first stop South Luangua National Park.  We have loved Malawi, one of our fave countries, but very excited to be seeing somewhere new.

    Lots and lots of loveUs xxx

    PS. For anyone who is interested, we also visited Nyika Plateau (worth it) and Vwaza Marsh (not worth it), but lost the photos!

    Wednesday May 09 2007MandB's african adventureWed, 09 May 2007 Wed, 09 May 2007
    Yes, hello, we are still alive and the beast is still roaring...image445.jpg

    After our last update we received an unexpected call from two Kenyan baboons (Sam and Guy) and a Scottish giant (Callum) and drove back up to Cape Maclear to hang out with them (check out Matt's 'fro)...image401.jpgimage402.jpgimage407.jpg

    Had a couple of days of kayaking and snorkelling in the lake - lots of fun...image403.jpgimage404.jpgimage405.jpgimage406.jpg

    Matt and Sam had a day's fishing from kayaks and as you can see caught some real monsters...image408.jpgimage409.jpg

    After a few days at Cape Maclear, we headed up the lake shore, stopping at Nkhotakhota pottery for a yummy lunch (in our new team hats)...image410.jpgimage446.jpgimage411.jpg

    Set up camp at Makuzi Beach (check out Sam's hi tech tent).  Lovely day swimming and posh meal in the evening, as a farewell to the boys...image412.jpgimage413.jpgimage447.jpg

    After boys left, we decided to make our way to Mt Mulanji (in South) for Bonnie's b'day.  First stop was the Viphya Forest; Luwawa Forest Lodge, where we walked, fished and had lovely sundowners on the dam...image415.jpgimage418.jpgimage417.jpg

    Tragically... their dog took a dislike to our tent and woke us at 6am by ripping through the fly sheet... gutted... as you can see, local tailor came to the rescue (sort of)...image414.jpgimage416.jpgimage419.jpg

    Next stop was Liwonde National Park, kind of disappointing on the animal front, but lovely sundowner spot overlooking the river Shire, (can anyone identify this bird for us - it was HUGE)...image422.jpgimage425.jpgimage420.jpgimage421.jpg

    Stopped overnight on Zomba Plateau, at a Trout Farm with cute little forest huts... roaring fires all night...image423.jpgimage424.jpg

    On 1st May we did the final leg on a brand new highway that has been dedicated to an iconic African leader who has been a beacon of light for Africa's development and democracy...image426.jpg

    Arrived at Mt Mulanji (highest mountain in central Africa), just in time for Matt to get some fishing in (and get line stuck)... image427.jpgimage428.jpgimage429.jpg

    Early on 2nd May Bonnie was ready with her war paint to face the mountain...image438.jpg

    It was a stunning hike, with breathtaking views... but bloomin hard work.  Took 6 and a half steep rocky hours to get up to the CCAP hut (built out of cedar in 1899 so currently on it's last legs).  Bonnie got an early bday pressie to keep her head warm on the mountain and we spent the evening toasty by the fire, and looking forward to seeing a spectacular sunrise on Bonnie's bday...image430.jpgimage431.jpgimage432.jpgimage433.jpgimage434.jpgimage435.jpgimage436.jpgimage437.jpgimage439.jpg

    hmmm, if the sun rose, we didn't see it.  Woke to heavy mist, which cleared as we walked down the mountain.  Hot by the time we reached the bottom, so jumped straight in the river to cool off... image440.jpgimage441.jpgimage442.jpg

    That afternoon, Bonnie got more pressies and in the evening we had the most amazing Stagg Chicken Curry (Yes, Matt managed to get hold of a chicken on the mountain), followed by birthday cake and posh chocs... yum...image443.jpgimage444.jpg

    Wow, mammoth update!  We have been in Lilongwe for a little while now, Matt's infection returned and he has had a few days of R and R to recover.  Tomorrow we'll head over the border into Zambia, first stop South Luangua National Park.  We have loved Malawi, one of our fave countries, but very excited to be seeing somewhere new.Lots and lots of love

    Us xxxPS. For anyone who is interested, we also visited Nyika Plateau (worth it) and Vwaza Marsh (not worth it), but lost the photos!

    Wednesday May 09 2007MandB's african adventureWed, 09 May 2007 Wed, 09 May 2007
    Yes, hello, we are still alive and the beast is still roaring...

    image445.jpgAfter our last update we received an unexpected call from two Kenyan baboons (Sam and Guy) and a Scottish giant (Callum) and drove back up to Cape Maclear to hang out with them (check out Matt's 'fro)...

    image401.jpgimage402.jpgimage407.jpgHad a couple of days of kayaking and snorkelling in the lake - lots of fun...

    image403.jpgimage404.jpgimage405.jpgimage406.jpgMatt and Sam had a day's fishing from kayaks and as you can see caught some real monsters...

    image408.jpgimage409.jpgAfter a few days at Cape Maclear, we headed up the lake shore, stopping at Nkhotakhota pottery for a yummy lunch (in our new team hats)...

    image410.jpgimage446.jpgimage411.jpgSet up camp at Makuzi Beach (check out Sam's hi tech tent).  Lovely day swimming and posh meal in the evening, as a farewell to the boys...

    image412.jpgimage413.jpgimage447.jpgAfter boys left, we decided to make our way to Mt Mulanji (in South) for Bonnie's b'day.  First stop was the Viphya Forest; Luwawa Forest Lodge, where we walked, fished and had lovely sundowners on the dam...

    image415.jpgimage418.jpgimage417.jpgTragically... their dog took a dislike to our tent and woke us at 6am by ripping through the fly sheet... gutted... as you can see, local tailor came to the rescue (sort of)...

    image414.jpgimage416.jpgimage419.jpgNext stop was Liwonde National Park, kind of disappointing on the animal front, but lovely sundowner spot overlooking the river Shire, (can anyone identify this bird for us - it was HUGE)...

    image422.jpgimage425.jpgimage420.jpgimage421.jpgStopped overnight on Zomba Plateau, at a Trout Farm with cute little forest huts... roaring fires all night...

    image423.jpgimage424.jpgOn 1st May we did the final leg on a brand new highway that has been dedicated to an iconic African leader who has been a beacon of light for Africa's development and democracy...

    image426.jpgArrived at Mt Mulanji (highest mountain in central Africa), just in time for Matt to get some fishing in (and get line stuck)... 

    image427.jpgimage428.jpgimage429.jpgEarly on 2nd May Bonnie was ready with her war paint to face the mountain...

    image438.jpgIt was a stunning hike, with breathtaking views... but bloomin hard work.  Took 6 and a half steep rocky hours to get up to the CCAP hut (built out of cedar in 1899 so currently on it's last legs).  Bonnie got an early bday pressie to keep her head warm on the mountain and we spent the evening toasty by the fire, and looking forward to seeing a spectacular sunrise on Bonnie's bday...

    image430.jpgimage431.jpgimage432.jpgimage433.jpgimage434.jpgimage435.jpgimage436.jpgimage437.jpgimage439.jpghmmm, if the sun rose, we didn't see it.  Woke to heavy mist, which cleared as we walked down the mountain.  Hot by the time we reached the bottom, so jumped straight in the river to cool off... 

    image440.jpgimage441.jpgimage442.jpgThat afternoon, Bonnie got more pressies and in the evening we had the most amazing Stagg Chicken Curry (Yes, Matt managed to get hold of a chicken on the mountain), followed by birthday cake and posh chocs... yum...

    image443.jpgimage444.jpgWow, mammoth update!  We have been in Lilongwe for a little while now, Matt's infection returned and he has had a few days of R and R to recover.  Tomorrow we'll head over the border into Zambia, first stop South Luangua National Park.  We have loved Malawi, one of our fave countries, but very excited to be seeing somewhere new.

    Lots and lots of loveUs xxx

    PS. For anyone who is interested, we also visited Nyika Plateau (worth it) and Vwaza Marsh (not worth it), but lost the photos!

    Wednesday May 09 2007MandB's african adventureWed, 09 May 2007 Sun, 15 Apr 2007
    Hello lovely people,Wow seems like ages since we were in Tanzania, but will start this update from there... in Tukuyu, last stop for us before the Malawi Border.
    Funny town, surrounded by Tea Plantations, so we went on a Tea Tour.
    Run by a local cooperative of small farmers... whose tea (or a bit of it anyway) goes into Teadirect teabags.
    One of our guides, the lovely Mama Cecilia
    (seen below plucking with us) has
    been to Britain
    a couple of times during fairtrade fortnight... she thinks ole blighty is very cold and people there are lovely.
    Tea tour was lots of fun, and very educational too... we picked tea, walked to the big tea estate, then Mr Ngella (lovely chap, piccy with Matt below) showed us the sorting and drying processes in the factory.

    image398.jpgimage399.jpgimage400.jpgimage401.jpgimage402.jpgThat evening we could only find one place to pitch our tent, at the Lutengano Moravian Centre, some sort of pastor training centre... very strange place, got lots of stares while Matt was cooking dinner.
    Had to pitch tent in the college quad!

    image403.jpgFirst stop in Malawi was Sangilo Beach... ahhhh.
    Gorgeous.

    image404.jpgimage405.jpgAfter a few days of beachside chilling we headed up the mountains to Livingstonia... old missionry town - like preserved
    scottish village from 18th century... with great bakery in mud hut! Camped on edge of the world...as you can see.
    Could see the curve of the earth, plus the most amazing sunsets, starry nights and sunrises.



    image408.jpgimage409.jpgNext stop was Makuzi Beach - back on the lake, for a few more days of chilling out (hmm, and some washing)

    image410.jpgimage411.jpgimage413.jpgWe spent easter weekend at Kande Beach, big backpacker resort type place, loads of whiteys... overland trucks and volunteers and expats... all a bit scary for us after weeks of isolation!
    hid in the hammocks for three days.

    image414.jpgNext stop on the lakeshore was Senga Bay, found great little garden campsite called Cool Runnings, played frisbee and volleyball with newfound friends. Then Guy Lawrence (kenyan buddy) arrived with friends.
    So had silly night of too much gin and kuche kuche beer, finished with three fellas having massive playfight on beach... or were they just attacking matt?

    image415.jpgimage416.jpgimage417.jpgimage418.jpgSped up rest of Malawi trip so that we can meet Guy and Sam and others in Zambia, so had couple of nights at Cape Maclear (bad road in meant beast's brakes
    needed some tlc on arrival).
    Saw amazing sunsets and went diving!
    THANKS EMMA!
    Fantastic wedding pressie.
    Bonnie's first time in the scuba stuff, loved it.
    Great great fun, saw lots of cichlids... fish only found in lake malawi (or might be exaggerating.. phez?)
    was like being in giant aquarium.
    PS notice Matt's hair experiment has now extended to beard growth too - soon we'll only be able to identify him by examining his feet.

    image419.jpgimage420.jpg

    Matt was not feeling too well the next day so we gave in to temptation when we found a cute forest lodge on the Zomba Plateau... amazing views again,
    aswell as a posh room and great food paid for out of the emergency treats fund (thanks ma xx).


    We're now in Blantyre, Matt on the mend, and we're loving the opportunity to stock up with goodies from shopping malls (they have cadburys)!

    Lots and lots and lots of big loveus

    xxxxOn 04/15/07MandB's african adventureSun, 15 Apr 2007 Wed, 21 Mar 2007
    Hello again,

    After driving through Mikumi NP, we stopped at Baobab Valley (lots of Baobab Trees as the name suggests!).
    Matt made friends with Toto the Maasai guard... and guess what...went catfish fishing! (he was very sad to see us go).
    It was hot hot hot there... but lots of v pretty birds.

    Next stop was Riverside Campsite just outside Iringa - much cooler... infact Bonnie had to buy some more jeans (see below).
    The rains have started so we cracked out our homemade awning... Matt did some more fishing, this time with lovely Able - getting continually stuck on the same bloody branch!
    Bonnie has found an occupation to keep her busy on the river bank... making a patchwork throw... Sarah (Able's wife) helped her get started.





    After 5 days at Riverside, we headed to Kisolanza Farm (thanks for the recommendation Dinko - we loved it!).
    Still raining, but had a little hut to make home.
    Also discovered how to make much longed for toast - hoorah!
    We could buy
    their own
    veg and meat at this brill place - had a great bbq.image373.jpg
    image375.jpg

    Matt was taken fishing by Ryan an 11 yr old zim boy, and Freddy and Emmanual.
    He caught 22 Tilapia (yes Tom... that's two twos!) which
    were shared out among the farm workers.
    We had a yummy chowder that evening with the 2 biggest.image376.jpgimage377.jpgimage378.jpg

    Sewing is addictive... even Matt is getting enthused about the patchwork!image372.jpgimage374.jpg

    Matt's bday on the 16th March - had special breakfast of sausages (very rare) and eggs - thank you Jill.
    Then a day's fishing (this time together!) at a small dam on the farm - very beautiful, and a bit of an adventure to get to.
    Not so many this time - 7 (bonnie wasn't such a good worm hunter as Emmanual).image379.jpgimage380.jpgimage381.jpgimage382.jpg

    After our day of fun, the bday evening started, kicked off with Kenya Cane sundowners.
    Then had yummy three course meal and a bottle of wine, specially prepared for us - MASSIVE LAMB CHOPS!!!
    done crispy like mr staggy likes too!
    Entertained ourselves with the parsley sprig (that's chest hair and a gammy eye).
    Chocolate birthday cake too. All in all a cracking bday.
    Thanks Jill for dinner too.
    (Mindy - can you spot the Tshirt?).image383.jpgimage384.jpgimage385.jpgimage386.jpgimage387.jpgimage388.jpgimage389.jpgimage391.jpgimage390.jpg

    Next morning, when packing up the tent, we found
    that our mat had made a tasty meal for some termites...image392.jpg

    Arrived at Utengule Coffee Plantation in time for the 6 Nations games on Saturday.
    Gutted by the results (that's Matt, not Bonnie).
    Had four days swimming, walking, playing tennis, and sheltering from the storms... it has seriously been raining.
    Note the first piccy below - Staggy has turned into a Twitcher!
    Bird book, tick.
    Binocs, tick. Anorak, tick!




    Off to Tukuyu (tea plantation area), then into Malawi probably in a week or so.
    We'll have a new number there, so will let you know it asap.
    Meanwhile, date for your diary... we're coming home on 18th August... see you then!lots of love

    usxxxx

    On 03/21/07MandB's african adventureWed, 21 Mar 2007 Wed, 07 Mar 2007
    Hi all, Sorry taken so long for the latest update - speedy computers are pretty tricky to find in Southern Tanzania!
    Got lots of piccies of our great three week holiday with Bonnie's ma and aunty mindy, starting with their very exciting arrival...

    image288.jpgHad a day planning our route on the coast near Dar Es Salaam..

    image289.jpgBefore heading northwards to the Usambara Mountains where we stayed a couple of nights at Irente Farm... and saw the fabulous Irente View...(Ma clearly has an abnormally small head!)...





    Drove on to Mto Wa Mbu grabbed some pink bananas (this piccy's for you Jacob!), swam in the pool, Matt joined a band...




    Day at Ngorogoro crater.. we were up super early to see sunrise over the crater, saw all the animals, including v close encounters with elephants and lions... ma got a bit hot at the brekky spot - inventive use of kikoy!








    Back to Arusha, where Ma treated us to a posh dinner...


    Then on to Soni (in Usambara Mountains again), great spot of Kili on the way, picked up groceries on side of road, found most amazing place to stay - Maweni Farm.
    Got Ma and Mindy in a tent!

    image330.jpg

    image332.jpg

    Perfect, Matt did a spot of fishing when we arrived, rather meagre supper of three small fish between the four of us...

    image338.jpgThe next day was far more successful...yes you did count correctly Tom, that is 13 tilapia in the bowl...they made a great biryani!


    image334.jpgimage335.jpgimage339.jpgHad 5 chilled days on Kendwa beach in Northern Zanzibar - lots of beautiful sunsets, yummy seafood and general lazing,
    apart from Matt's burst of unexpected energy with a kayak
    (also spot
    him asking local fisherman where the sea is)...

    image340.jpgimage341.jpg




    image358.jpg
    image349.jpgLast few days with Ma and Mindy were spent
    in Stone Town -
    shopping, mooching round crumbling lanes and a educational spice tour...

    image350.jpgimage352.jpgimage353.jpgimage354.jpgimage355.jpgimage351.jpg
    image357.jpgimage359.jpgAfter saying a v sad good bye to Ma and Mindy, we're now
    heading towards Malawi (very slowly).
    Spent half day trying to find illusive campsite up Uluguru Mountains (had to turn round and go back down, only
    to stay in posh colonial hotel!)

    image360.jpgNext day drove through Mikumi National Park (Tanzam Highway goes straight through it - v cool freebie!) didn't expect to see anything this exciting... (here's three of the 17 elephants we saw!)

    image361.jpgimage362.jpgCurrently in Iringa, where we'll waste a few days chilling by the river Ruaha. Oddly enough place seems way more full of americans doing missionary work than africans!!!

    Lots and lots of love us

    xxxxxOn 03/07/07MandB's african adventureWed, 07 Mar 2007 Sat, 10 Feb 2007
    Hello lovely everyone.
    Here is our last installment from Keeeenya!

    Had a day at the Ewaso River with Jethwa boys and girl and Tom.
    Lots of catfish were caught!image265.jpg

    image266.jpgimage267.jpg

    The next day we headed back to Lake Naivasha for some camping and a lovely day walking round Crater Lake Nature Reserve.
    image268.jpg

    image269.jpgimage270.jpg

    That evening was Colm D'Olier's
    24th bday party.
    Sundowners and singing by the lake, followed by yummy bbq and lots and lots of gin.image272.jpg

    image273.jpgimage271.jpg

    We drove to Lake Baringo for a couple of hot hot hot nights and days. Didn't manage much more than doing our washing and lazing by the next door pool.

    Cooking on open fire was perhaps not our best idea (mega hot evenings)!
    Staggy tried a bit of fishing, but not a sausage.

    image275.jpg

    Eventually got round to visiting Matt's old school; The Banda.
    He was in his element, and spent all our daily budget on second hand sports kit (very retro)...





    Had a great night out in Gilgil, with long lost buddies Katie Davis and Mike Aung (teachers at Banda's rival school). The next day their school Pembroke
    played hockey against Banda, and despite Katie's dodgy ref-ing, Banda wiped the floor with them....spot Matt's retro tracksuit top!...









    The next night, had a big farewell evening in Nairobi... so hungover the next morning that we had to delay our departure til the next day!
    (Also, had to stick around to watch Jonny the God Wilkinson.)





    On way to Dar we stopped off for a couple of nights at Kari and Tim's house in Mtwapa (on the coast).
    Had chilled day by their pool (with Ross, Kari's bro and Chilli their three legged dog) and lovely pizza and icecream dinner out...







    The next day we crossed the border into Tanzania, and are now in Dar Es Salaam, waiting for Bonnie's Ma and Aunty
    Mindy
    to arrive... only 2 hrs 40 mins to go!!
    V V excited.

    New tel no. if anyone is bored at work and wants to text (still lovin the international texting) is +255 786 877 411.Lots and lots of love

    usxx

    On 02/10/07MandB's african adventureSat, 10 Feb 2007 Wed, 17 Jan 2007
    Hello all, Here's a few bonus shots from last week's update... due to technical difficulties got left off the last blog entry (Matt and Sam waterskiing on Lake Naivasha, JJ in his stag do outfit and whitewater rafting on the stag do)...

    image239.jpgimage240.jpg

    image241.jpgimage242.jpg

    image243.jpgNow on to our recent exploits.
    As you all know, Tom and George stayed on in Kenya for an extra week.
    Once Tom was out of hospital we headed to Timau at the base of Mount Kenya; crossing the equator on the way

    image244.jpg

    where we camped...

    image245.jpgwalked...

    image246.jpgimage247.jpg

    had a go at hand carving some bowls...image250.jpgimage249.jpg

    image251.jpgimage252.jpgimage253.jpg





    cooked
    on, and kept warm round
    open fires and our new jiko (charcoal stove)...image248.jpg



    celebrated 9 yrs since
    we met (thanks Tom
    and George for the yummy cake, delish curry and very sturdy
    jiko box!)








    Searched in vain for some trout fishing opportunities (apparently they've all been 'washed away'!), at last found Tana river loaded with tilapia and catfish, where the boys spent a very productive afternoon and morning (more productive for Matt than Tom!
    - sorry Tom, couldn't resist)
    while the gals sunbathed!...

    Thats all for now folks, thanks for all the comments and emails.
    We're gonna be in kenya til early Feb when we're meeting Bonnie's ma and aunty mindy for three weeks hol in Tanzania.
    Not sure what we'll be doing til then, maybe a bit of farmin, more walkin, fishin, and some serious budgeting (waxed way too much cash over xmas!).
    In case you don't have it our phone no. in Kenya is +254 720526157.Loads and loads of lovin

    usxxx

    460106164bcd9On 01/17/07MandB's african adventureWed, 17 Jan 2007 Thu, 11 Jan 2007

    Hello everybody,


    Merry Christmas and Happy New Year everyone!



    Back on the blog again after a month in Kenya � been very busy having lots of fun with Kenyan and Brit buddies.
    Here�s a few piccies of the shenanigans we got up to in early December (Partying with Kiro, Sam, Jay, Franco, Pablo and families and lots of other long lost Kenyan buddies, watersking on Lake Naivasha, living with the Jethwa�s, JJ�s whitewater rafting stag do, visiting Daphne Sheldrick�s elephant orphanage, and last but definitely not least � our posh night at Nairobi Serena Hotel � thank you so so much for that pressie Abeed and Alex, it was fab!)�










    image198.jpg

    We had Christmas in Nairobi with the Jethwa�s (thank you so much for having us Claire and Batuk) and must not forget the Nimmo clan (JJ�s inlaws).
    Chrissy day finished with a great party at the Davis�s house, where a plum eating comp was played (M came 2nd)�.


    image199.jpgimage201.jpgimage202.jpgimage203.jpgimage204.jpgimage205.jpgimage206.jpg

    Our lovely buddies; Tom, George, Toby, Karen, Ant, Katie and Lou arrived on 27-28th Dec.
    We all headed to Diani Beach for New Year and JJ and Lucy�s wedding celebrations (and.. deep sea fishing, snorkeling, chilling by the pool, bbqs, cooking together, beach days, dhow fishing, Batuk�s great curry for New Year dinner etc).�.


    image207.jpgimage208.jpgimage209.jpgimage210.jpgimage211.jpgimage212.jpgimage213.jpgimage214.jpg

    After New Year we headed up country with the Brits for a safari � camped on Lake Naivasha, ate lots of cake during high tea at Elsamere Conservation Centre, walked in Hell�s Gate gorge, saw lots of animals in Nakuru National Park and had sundowners at the Tundo�s�


    image215.jpgimage216.jpgimage217.jpgimage218.jpgimage219.jpgimage220.jpgimage221.jpgimage222.jpgimage223.jpgimage224.jpgimage225.jpgimage226.jpgimage227.jpgimage228.jpgimage229.jpgimage230.jpg

    image232.jpgimage233.jpgimage234.jpg

    Ant, Katie, Lou, Tobes and Kaz have all headed back to ole blighty, but Tom and George had second thoughts and have extended their holiday for another week.
    Unfortunately with all the excitement Tom got sick and had to visit Karen Hospital (for 2 days!).
    Here�s a piccie of him in his private suite�


    image235.jpg

    We�ll be setting off for Mount Kenya this afternoon, with George and Tom for a bit of wholesome walking and fishing after our boozy Christmas and New Year.


    Loads of love us

    On 11/11/07MandB's african adventureThu, 11 Jan 2007 Thu, 14 Dec 2006
    Righty ho everybody, the final installment of the Moreton Sisters� Chapter of our trip� We have some more great shots from our time in Ngorongoro Crater (including the frisky Ostrich and monkeys who broke into the car and stole our bread despite the whooping Dinko)�.











    After the crater we made our way back to Dar, via the Usumbara Mountains where we stayed at a great little farm (Irente Farm) which made its own cheese, bread, fruit juice cereal and jams � mmmmmmmm� Whilst there we went for a walk to the �famous Irente View Point� on the one day a year that it is shrouded in mist!







    After we got back to Dar we headed to Zanzibar where we spent a couple of days on Kendwa Beach (North Zanzibar) to top up the girls� tans before they headed back to old blighty�.



















    Our last night was spent in the Dhow Palace, a very posh hotel in Stone Town, with pool, aircon, roof top restaurant, Rosemary and Thyme on telly need we say any more. It was our wedding pressie from Dinks � thank you Dinko it was brill!!!









    After that we headed back to Dar and the girls flew home, leaving two very sad truckers behind. It was great to have both of them with us, reminded us of all our wonderful friends back home. We are now in Keeeeeeeeeeenya, but you will have to wait for the next blog for that one. Love us On 12/14/06MandB's african adventureThu, 14 Dec 2006 Wed, 29 Nov 2006
    Hello lovely peops.
    Well we've had a fab 2 weeks with the wonderful wonderful Moreton Sisters.
    Here is part one of the fun (part two to come, when dinko has downloaded the rest of the piccies - no pressure dinks!).
    First day with the girlies, our camera got nicked, so blog is coming to you courtesy of 'dinky downloads'.
    We started the trip with a day at the beautiful Kipepeo beach lodge, south of Dar.
    Lounged, swam and bought lobsters for M to curry for our dinner.

    image147.jpgimage148.jpgimage149.jpgNext day we set off in the beast to the North.
    Girls got settled in the back seat, and promptly snoozed most of the way!
    Stopped off to get some
    veggies from the best veggie stall we've seen so far, and stayed over at Pangani River Camp, where we spotted bushbabies before bed, and were protected by an askari (guard) with a bow and arrow!
    Becca didn't sleep too well, dreaming about the crocs and hippos in the nearby river (we were assured that they only come in October... hmmm)

    image150.jpgimage151.jpgimage152.jpgGot to Arusha National Park for the next afternoon, where we saw loads of monkeys and giraffes (plus all the other usual suspects).
    Lush views of Mount Meru (phez - we thought of you standing on the top... in your intrepid explorer pose).
    Had yummy picnic of peanut butter and chevda
    sarnies.

    image153.jpg





    That evening had our first drinkies of the hol in Arusha's Maasai Camp - plenty of G & Ts... acrobats were performing and we all managed to stay up til 11pm - incredible!
    Becca and Bonnie chose the rubbish beef and banana stew (imagine a bowl of bananas, with gravy).


    Entered Ngorongora Conservation Area
    the next afternoon, and were greeted with the most amazing view from the first viewpoint... so so breathtaking.
    Spent the night in the rather basic Simba A camp on the edge of the crater... had to dig out jumpers for first time in months - but a stagg sausage stew and a few mugs of wine soon warmed us up!
    Don't worry mum and mindy, we've located a more luxurious option for your visit!
    Up at 5am, we were the first people down into the crater that morning.
    Almost missed our first sighting of a lion (we were too busy looking at the pretty weaver birds!).
    Incredible sight in the early morning light, very very special.
    The rest of the day was just as incredible.
    Picnicing by the hippo pool, weaver birds pecking around in the car for crumbs, loads of grazing zebra, buffalo, wildebeast, 2 lions eating a kill, dinko spotting 3 elephants in the forest (making up for all the rocks she spotted during the day)
    and a couple of ostriches getting a bit frisky!








    Thats all for now folks.
    More to come soon.

    We're missing the chrissy excitements here, so have bought ourselves
    new camera and windup LW radio - let's hope World Service broadcasts the Archers!Big big festive love from us

    xxxOn 11/29/06MandB's african adventureWed, 29 Nov 2006 Tue, 14 Nov 2006
    Hi all, are you sitting comfortably?
    then we shall begin.

    Next update starts in northern mozambique; Pemba, where we spent a few days on the beach chilling, and waiting for full moon so that we could embark on our
    2 day border crossing adventure (needed the tides to be high so that the vehicle ferry would beable to carry us and the car across the Ruvuma River into Tanzania).
    While there we got the beast
    serviced (see the piccy of M greasing the beast's nipples!).
    Also hooked up with a Dutch couple - Florence and Frans who were planning the same route, we travelled in convoy over the border in case of any emergencies (see mums stagg and miners, we are being very careful!)image128.jpgimage129.jpg

    Had an overnight stop in Mocimboa do Praia, after an 8 hour drive.
    Been getting very handy with the camping gear, as you can see.
    Tea in plastic cups and 1-pot stews are our speciality.image131.jpgimage132.jpg

    The next day we were up and outa there at 7am in order to reach the river in good time for high tide.
    Had to do some serious 4x4 bush driving (40KM in 2.5 hrs) mainly over sand,
    with a couple of stream crossings thrown in.
    M had to wade across the river (1KM) and jump on the back of a wobbly bike for 5KM to the
    tanzanian border where the ferry man was taking a nap!
    He arranged
    for the ferry to come
    get us
    in exchange for some paracetamol (and a few dollars) then had to cycle and wade back (on the return journey
    a local informed him that there are plenty of crocs and
    hippos in the river..eek).
    Ferry crossing took 1 hour, port was dug out of the mud bank on each trip.
    image133.jpgimage134.jpgimage135.jpgimage136.jpgimage137.jpg

    Arrived in Mikindani in South Tanzania in the dark that evening.
    Was a lush lush, chilled out, friendly place and so we stayed longer that we had planned.
    Gate crashed the very posh hotel - old german boma restored - had some very expensive dinner there and chilled out by their pool.
    This piccy is from the top of the
    tower.image138.jpg

    Drove north over a dreadful bumpy road to Kilwa, old arab ruins on island.
    Very very beautiful and atmospheric, got all arty with the camera.image139.jpgimage140.jpg
    image142.jpgimage143.jpg

    Another awful road up to Dar from Kilwa, this time in the pouring rain, oh joy.
    Car and we survived tho (3.5hrs for 54 km... lots of big puddles like this one)

    Atlast, we have arrived in Dar, at the airport this very mo, waiting for dinko and becca... v v excited.
    Here's a couple of piccies of us in the campsite on the beach that we've been staying in, and matt and Frans doing some 'post-awful-roads' car maintainance.

    Love you all lots, til next timexxx

    On 11/14/06MandB's african adventureTue, 14 Nov 2006 Thu, 02 Nov 2006
    Hello all, more piccies of our adventure.We had a fab few days camping in Mlilwane Wildlife Sanctuary, Swaziland - which has been set up to allow people to walk through out the whole sanctuary. Saw tonnes of animals, birds, did breathtaking early morning walks and fed bushbabies on bananas in the evening. Try and read the sign in the picture where Matt is on all fours - it will all become clear!!

    image102.jpg



    After Swaziland, we crossed the border into Mozambique and have been trying to communicate in Spangloportugeseish! Headed to the capital; Maputo. Spent a couple of days there, sorting out boring stuff (visas etc) highlight was dinner at the fish market. After lots of bartering we chose lobsters and tiger prawns and nice chap grilled them and served with chips.... so so so delicious!

    image103.jpgA day's drive north (and two dodgy police stops - cost us 50quid in bribes - grr) took us to Tofo. We had a few days chilling on the beautiful beach, and eating fresh seafood from the market (and matt's fishing line!). Very chilled. Bonnie discovered how yummy sugar cane is...

    image104.jpgimage105.jpgimage106.jpgimage107.jpgimage108.jpgAfter another day's drive further north, we arrived in Vilanculos - gateway to the Bazaruto Archipelago (Marine National Park thingy). Lampy, we swopped our theatre trip for a day trip on a dhow to Margaruque Island - snorkelling and delicious barracuda and crab lunch - hope you don't mind... it was really fabulous (and couldn't find anything good on at the theatre!). Thank you! Dad Stagg - check out the size of the Cowry shell (we did put it back carefully!)...

    image109.jpgimage110.jpg





    After chilling on the islands, we faced a three day mega-journey up to Isla Do Mocambique in North Moz. 5am-5pm driving every day, serious heat, crap potholed roads - or sometimes no road at all, and lots of peeing on the side of the road. Had to catch a ferry across the Zambesi - Matt had to do some very aggressive drving to get our car on, competing with big trucks (3rd time it worked!), used our fab mozzy net for the first time - thanks very much Danny and Amanda - kept us free of bites (except when bonnie kicked it open in middle of night!), and drove bridge across the sea to get to our destination; Isla.






    Isla do Mocambique was capital of Portugese East Africa from 14th century... so lots of amazing grand old colonial buildings, crumbling and ignored by locals. Really fascinating to wonder through the streets, and inspired us to take lots of arty shots (don't worry won't put them here!). We camped in a local's courtyard (see black and white piccy). The bread picture is from the night market, which we loved. The last two piccies are us on the roof catching sunset.







    On 11/02/06MandB's african adventureThu, 02 Nov 2006 Wed, 25 Oct 2006
    Hello All you lovely people,

    We are currently in Mozambique, after having travelled from Durban, up the coast of SA, and through Swaziland.

    These piccies cover our first close encounters with big furry animals in St Lucia Wetlands and Hluhluwe Umflozi National Game Reserves (in SA just before entering Swaziland).
    More recent ones to come in near (ish) future... Spent one day driving through the St Lucia Wetlands National Park, and on the St Lucia Lake.
    We tallied 6 rhinos... we thought was pretty impressive (photos were all a bit dud tho)...

    image92.jpgimage93.jpgimage84.jpgimage85.jpg

    image81.jpgHowever, the next day driving round Hluhluwe Umflozi National Game Reserves we spotted 26 rhinos and 18 giraffes!.... and got charged by one of them - spot the hastily taken photo as Bonnie floored it away from the huge stressed out daddy! (Matt wanted to go back for more photos, bonnie refused).
    Tonnes of other game, here are some of the best shots..

    image80.jpgimage82.jpgimage83.jpgimage87.jpg

    image88.jpgimage89.jpgimage90.jpgimage91.jpg

    almost forgot...image86.jpg

    Lots of love from usxxxx

    On 10/25/06MandB's african adventureWed, 25 Oct 2006 Mon, 09 Oct 2006
    Hello all,It's been ages since our last update, as the pixies ran off with our very important digital camera leads... hmm.
    But now we're in the big city of Durban, it's all sorted.
    Hooray!

    So, after Oudtshorn we headed on to Knysna, where we spent a day quadbiking in the Featherbed Nature Reserve.
    Thanks very much to Anthony and Katie, it was great fun!..image54.jpgimage53.jpgimage55.jpg

    Next day, we saw some dolphins!
    Overlooking the stunning Knysna Heads (headland in piccy below is the Featherbed NR)...image56.jpg

    We drove on to Natures Valley, and found the most lush place and stayed at Wild Tongue Backpackers - which had the most amazing views.
    We saw sunrise from our bed (you can see our toes at the bottom of the
    photo!)...image57.jpgimage58.jpg

    Had a few days chilling, and then on the first sunny day set off on a walk to Salt Water Cove - a secret bay - so secret that...image59.jpg

    we took all our clothes off and...image60.jpg

    went for a swim! There are also brill piccies of Bonnie, but she's not up for having naked pictures on internet!Had a mammoth journey to get to Hogsback (mountain village).
    Went on some amazing walks (with the three doggies - Matt loved it!), saw waterfalls, snuggled by the fireside, went fishing (Tom this piccie was taken for you! Matt
    maintained his fishing record and caught '0')... and had way too much to drink one night (bar bill = 450 Rand... 1 beer costs 8 Rand!)...

    image61.jpgimage62.jpgimage63.jpgimage64.jpgDespite the hangovers from hell, we made it the next day to Buccaneers at Cintsa (Toby and Ant will know the place).
    Crashed there, but were up the next morn for kayaking before brekky!...

    image65.jpgAfter brekky we headed up the coast to Coffee Bay.
    Were looking forward to seafood and surf lessons.
    Unfortunatly, there was a massive storm so no crayfish to be had.
    We had a really fun surf lesson... but was in the pouring rain and driving wind... so no piccies - Sorry Anne!
    But thanks very very much, we loved it... was hilarious falling off the board in the torrential storm!
    We've already been practicing at other places... M is showing much more promise than B (surprise surprise!)

    Found ourselves at
    an Eco Friendly backpackers in Mpande next.. called The Kraal.
    No running water, no electricity, down a dirt track in the middle of nowhere.
    M headed off with a couple of local boys to catch fish, while B chilled in the sun (finishing yet another book).
    We had a great bream for lunch - well done Mr Stagg (he caught 2...small ones...the big ones all got away...)image66.jpg

    Mammoth 9 hour drive up to Lesotho for our pony trekking trip.
    Spot the washing line in the car...image67.jpg

    Had a little walk up Mt Moorosi (where the Brits slaughtered hundreds of Basotho
    - for a change)...image68.jpg

    Then headed on further into the mountains, to Malealea Lodge, where we were treated to the honeymoon suite and a bottle of bubbly... image69.jpg

    Next day we set off on a 3 day pony trek in the mountains - Thanks very much to Toby and Louisa - what an amazing experience... stayed in two villages, very basic mud/dung huts, no water/electrics, incredible views, steep mountain passes, v strong tiny horses, matt did wonders to produce a lush dinner using only baked beans, tinned veg and soya mince...
    we know, twas a miracle!Spot the...

    Farting drunk local old biddy who got us lost on the way to the waterfall Mountain village we stayed in

    Gilbert our guideMatt's masterpiece dinner

    image70.jpgimage71.jpgimage72.jpgimage73.jpgimage74.jpgimage75.jpgimage77.jpgimage78.jpg

    We're now in Durban, after brief stops in Kestell - Free State town, and Drakensburg Mountain range (sorry no photos).
    Plans for the next couple of weeks include St Lucia, Swaziland and then into Mozambique... might be
    a while before the next update.Miss you all lots

    Bonnie and Mattxxxx



    On 10/09/06MandB's african adventureMon, 09 Oct 2006 Mon, 18 Sep 2006
    Hi all here is the latest... While we waited for the border paperwork to be completed on the beast we drove off to Stellenbosh and did a cracking wine/cheese tasting tour (thanks very much Bill..it was brilliant - 4 vineyards, 25 wines, lots of cheese and a great lunch!!)...




    It was all a bit too much for Bonnie, who had to have a little kip after...

    We headed to the Cape Penninsula for a couple of nights camping, lovely walks, beautiful views and random african penguins..





    Last night in Cape Town, saw amazing sunset on the beach at Table View...





    Eventually got the beast on the road, drove Route 62 to Oudtshoorn. Stopped off for a coffee at Ronnie's Sex Shop..

    Oudtshoorn is the Ostrich Capital of South Africa, so Matt had a go at riding one (apparently he was a natural!)..

    Next day we visited the fantastic Cango Caves and did a bit of potholing through some tight squeezes (named; the coffin, the letterbox, the chimney)...


    That's for now folks Lotsa love UsSouth Africa On 09/18/06MandB's african adventureMon, 18 Sep 2006 Mon, 18 Sep 2006
    photoOn 09/18/06MandB's african adventureMon, 18 Sep 2006 Wed, 06 Sep 2006
    Right people time for another update...We walked up Lion's Head for sunset (becoming a common theme!), Chrissy P check out the head torches...

    image21.jpgimage22.jpgWe drove around Cape Point with Neil (the bar man from our backpackers) Simon and Dave (two of our new buddies). We were supposed to catch crayfish, until we found out that it was the closed season and we were also dropping our lines in a nature reserve!!

    image23.jpgimage24.jpgAs usual Baboons bring the traffic to a stop as they chill in the road..

    image25.jpgThe gang..Simon, Dave and Neil...

    image26.jpgWe have sorted our vehicle (1995 Toyota Hilux 4x4)
    to drive to Kenya and while waiting for the mechanic to finish checking it over we headed
    off to Swellendam for some R&R from our hectic life (!)
    in Cape Town. Swellendam is the 3rd oldest town in SA sitting on the edge of the Marloth Nature Park and Bontebok Game Park. So we cracked open our wonderfully snug and comfy tent (forgot to take photo's - sorry LSC people - will do next time promise!) put on our walking boots and hiked into the Marloth Park...

    image27.jpgimage28.jpgimage29.jpgimage30.jpgWe also hired two bikes one day and cycled to and around the Bontebok Park (named as it main breeding park for Bontebok in the world - Antelope type animals which were nearly extinct - 17 left at one point), which was hard work on our non bike legs...

    image31.jpgimage32.jpgimage33.jpgimage34.jpgWe are now back in Cape Town waiting for our car to be ready (literally in 10 mins!!!) so
    the next update will have photos of the beast.

    Love you all loadsM&B








    South Africa On 09/06/06MandB's african adventureWed, 06 Sep 2006 Tue, 29 Aug 2006
    This is the story so far.....


    Our room in Daddylonglegs....

    image1.jpg1st morning we climbed Table Mountain...

    image18.jpgimage19.jpgimage20.jpgThen moved to Green Point...

    image3.jpgWe visited Kirstenbosch Botanical Gardens with our new friend Simon (who you would all love)...

    image5.jpgimage6.jpgimage7.jpgSunset at Camps Bay...

    image2.jpgFollowed by Springboks back at Big Blue Backpackers...

    image4.jpg24th August -
    1st month anniversary dinner at Madame Zingara (thanks 'Alf Pint Murphy, spot the blue dancing monkey woman and the green garnish)...

    image8.jpgimage9.jpgimage10.jpgHiked up to Signal Hill with our 'travelling buddies' for sundowners...

    image11.jpgimage13.jpgimage15.jpgimage16.jpgimage12.jpgimage17.jpgSo there you have it the story so far.

    Love you allM&B



    South Africa On 08/29/06MandB's african adventureTue, 29 Aug 2006 Sun, 27 Aug 2006
    Hello, We're gonna have a go at this blogging whatsit... seems like it might be better than emailing, we'll try to get our photos on here soon...

    off to the beach now!love

    b and m Read more »
  • Alinafrica

    Posted by alinafrica @ 05:16 My first day in work was Wednesday 8th February. I arranged a lift from Rashid, a well known Boda Boda (motorbike taxi) driver. Rashid charged me 4000 Ugandan Shillings even though I know it should be no more that 3000. However, this is the difference between 90p and ?1.10 so I don?t really mind as he is trying to earn money to study Engineering at University! The journey is about 25 minuets of sheer terror of hanging onto the back of a badly maintained motorbike while flying along extremely bumpy dirt tracks, trying to avoid children, chickens, random boulders and the occasional truck coming straight at us. Lets just say it is an extremely uncomfortable and dusty journey that almost makes you religious by the end of it. Don?t worry Mum/Lara I bought a Crash Helmet in Mbale before leaving the previous day as the image of what could happen was still haunting me. Saying that, the views while riding into work are fantastic, or at least the ones I saw when I dared to open my eyes! I could definitely imagine Top Gear using this road for their next feature length episode. // When I arrived at work I was very warmly greeted in the Ugandan way. Ugandans are very polite and softly spoken and love prolonged welcomes. Everything they say is done so slowly in almost a whisper and is often accompanied by a very soft lengthy handshake, that probably goes on a little bit too long than is comfortable in our culture. I was introduced to the CAO (Chief Administrative Officer) which is pronounced ?cow? who as far as I can understand is second in command for the District and signs off everything. The man was plump, middle aged and dressed in full military ceremonial dress and reminded me of someone I dare not mention. The courtesy he was paid by the staff was unbelievable, as not even the Queen would command such respect. During our meeting, I was spoken about but not to which I found very strange. It felt like I was sitting in a headmaster?s office with your parents. I was also introduced to the District Environment Officer. And yes, there is only one and it seems she is responsible for everything environmental. Her name is Marian, she is young and seems to like nice clothes, phones and new hair do?s. // Our first appointment was a meeting with all the leaders of the 16 sub counties in the District, which was about landslide prevention. Landslides are the biggest issue in the area due to the steep hilly slopes and the high rainfall in the rainy seasons combined with the deforestation and over farming of the slopes. Only two years ago a landslide wiped out an entire village and killed around 200 people, yet we hear very little of it. It is worth noting that to get the sub county leaders to attend these meetings a generous lunch is put on which is something I haven?t seen in the Agency for a while! They are also given a ?transport? payment that more than covers their travel. Some people more sceptical that me may see this as a bribe to attend meetings, whatever your opinion is, it seems to work! // The next day Marian, Bosco the District Engineer and I were planning to carry out an Environmental Impact Assessment on a new proposed road going over the hills which would make the journey to Mbale a lot quicker. As there was a long walk involved we decided to go early so I was told to meet them in a local town at 07:00. It is worth noting that the Ugandans are not known for their time keeping. I phoned Bosco at around 08:00 as to their whereabouts and was told they were about 10 minuets away. At 09:00 they still had not come so I phoned again and was told exactly the same message. I then received a phone call at 09:30 saying that there was a change of plan and that I was to catch a boda to another village to meet there. Once we were all together we caught bodas to the start of the new road. Well it wasn?t that simple for me as my boda kept cutting out and getting stuck in gear. At one stage the boda cut out while going up a very steep hill and with the breaks not working either, we started to roll back and with our feet not stopping us we both abandoned ship which resulted in a nicely bruised ankle for me and a heavily dented motorbike for the driver. // After helping to push the bike up what seemed a never ending hill I got another ride but this time on a motorcross bike. I eventually met with Marian and Bosco to start our walk. The first couples of hours of the walk was up step hills that were heavily farmed. This is deepest rural Uganda and was reassured that locals would have never laid eyes on a white person before. Even Marian had only ever met one white person before and she is a City Girl. This meant that every village and house we passed by people just stopped and starred like I was an alien. Some were even too speechless to reply even after I greeted them in their native tongue. It was a hard climb in blistering heat but the views at the top were spectacular. We then descended the other side of the hills into Mount Elgon National Park. It is illegal to farm here and with armed guards patrolling, the park is mostly untouched jungle. We spent a couple more hours trekking through this jungle which was fantastic, stopping every now and again to cool off by a stream. I even managed to pitch in with a few pollution prevention methods for the construction of the new road. // We emerged from the jungle into more farmland and came across a newly built primary school. This was also a very remote area and the head teacher was more than happy to invite us in. Once the kids saw a ?muzongo? (White Man), nothing could stop them running out of their classrooms and staring at this strange creature. However, the kids were very timid and preferred to be more inquisitive from afar. We got invited into a classroom so that the kinds could sing us a greeting. This was quite an experience as there were 135 kids in a class and they sang their little hearts out. // After doing the rounds at the school and waiting for a lift that again didn?t turn up. We walked towards the main town. The kids were again so inquisitive that they followed us. After walking about a mile a couple of dozen of hardcore kids were still following a few steps behind, every time I stopped, they stopped, This was weird as they didn?t want any interaction, just to be near the Muzongo. We walked further through a number of villages with the same reaction of everyone stopping and staring with mouths open, Marian and Bosco found this hilarious as they had never seen it before. I even had a couple of children scream and run away in fear at the site of me, I?m hoping that was because I was white! Either way, every village we passed through seem to gather more children who wanted to follow. I felt a bit like Rocky or would that be more like Forest Gump. My sunburnt, dehydrated and sweaty face probably looked like neither. After finally getting to the main town, we only waited another hour before our lift turned up and took us to Mbale where we got food and I was left to catch a 2 hour commuter taxi back to Bududa. It was very late before I got back, but what a day! // The next day started with another death defying Boda ride to work but as it was Friday I had to wait a couple of hours before anybody else came in. After a brief meeting with Marian, she told me she had to go out to do some work in the field that afternoon. After enquiring further I found that ?some work? was somehow lost in translation and actually meant visiting her mother. Therefore the day was cut short and with nothing else to do I went back to the guest house to do some reading up of the annual reports I pinched from their office Read more »
  • Civilized travel


    How Twitter Can Enhance Your Travel Experience

    Whether you're a regular

    Twitter user like me or if you've never

    Tweeted before, Twitter can dramatically

    enhance your travel experience, and the

    great thing is you don't have to be an

    expert in order to benefit.


    This is a trick that I've

    been using for about two years now and

    below is a list of some of the ways my

    travel experience has been enhanced by

    Twitter:
    Read more »
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